All Chef Should Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.

Michael Gill
Michael Gill

Lena Hartwell is a former statistician and lottery enthusiast who now writes about probability and smart play strategies.